Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
